8ouncesgreen papayapeeled, deseeded, and cut into wedges (see note)
A bunch of watercress(see note)
Fish sauce, salt, and pepperto taste
Neutral oilfor searing and sautéing
Instructions
Sear the chicken: Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large pan over medium-high. Sear the chicken for a few minutes per side until lightly browned. Flip when they release easily from the pan. Remove and set aside.
Sauté the aromatics: In the same pan, sauté the ginger, garlic, and onion for a few minutes until softened and fragrant.
Add shrimp paste and coconut milk: Stir in the shrimp paste and cook for a minute. Pour in 1 ½ cans of coconut milk (add more for a richer sauce) along with fresh chilies to taste. Scrape up the browned bits (fond) from the bottom of the pan for extra flavor. Bring to a gentle simmer.
Simmer the chicken: Return the chicken to the pan. Add enough water to almost cover the pieces. Cover and simmer over medium-low heat for 20–30 minutes, or until the chicken is tender.
Add the vegetables: Add the green papaya and cook for 10–15 minutes, until just tender. Stir in the watercress and cook for 1–2 minutes, until wilted.
Season and serve: Taste and adjust with fish sauce, salt, and pepper. Serve hot with steamed rice
Notes
Chicken: Legs and wings stay juicy and flavorful. Native chicken (natural na manok) is traditional—tougher but richer in taste. Bone-in thighs, drumsticks, or a whole cut-up chicken also work.
Green Papaya: Swap with sayote, eggplant, upo, or kalabasa.
Leafy Greens: Watercress is peppery and fresh. Mustasa, kangkong, malunggay, dahon ng sili, or pechay are good options too.
Coconut Milk: Use more for a rich, creamy sauce, or add water for a lighter version.